How to Fix a Leaky Faucet

A dripping faucet is more than an annoyance. That steady drip wastes about 3,000 gallons of water per year — enough to take more than 60 baths. In Los Angeles, where water rates have risen steadily, a leaky faucet can add $20 to $40 to your annual water bill. The good news is that most leaky faucets are fixable in 30 minutes with basic tools and parts that cost under $20.

This guide covers the four main types of faucets you will find in LA homes and how to fix each one.

Step 1: Identify Your Faucet Type

Before you can fix a leaky faucet, you need to know what type you have. There are four main categories:

• Compression faucets — The oldest and simplest design. They have two separate handles for hot and cold, and each handle turns a stem that presses a rubber washer against a valve seat. Common in older LA homes built before the 1980s.
• Ball faucets — Single-handle faucets that use a rotating ball mechanism to control flow and temperature. Identified by a single handle that moves freely in all directions. Common in kitchens.
• Cartridge faucets — Can be single or double handle. They use a replaceable cartridge that slides in and out. The handle moves up and down for flow and left and right for temperature.
• Ceramic disc faucets — The most modern design. They use two ceramic discs that slide against each other to control water flow. Usually single-handle with a wide cylindrical body.

Before You Start: Gather Your Tools

For most faucet repairs, you will need:

• Adjustable wrench
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
• Allen wrench set (hex keys)
• Replacement parts (washer, O-ring, cartridge, or repair kit — buy these after identifying your faucet type)
• Plumber's grease
• Towels

Important first step: Turn off the water supply valves under the sink before you begin. Turn both hot and cold valves clockwise until they stop. Then open the faucet to release any remaining pressure and water.

Fixing a Compression Faucet

Compression faucets almost always leak because the rubber seat washer is worn out. This is the simplest repair.

1. Remove the decorative cap on top of the handle (pry it off with a flathead screwdriver).
2. Remove the screw underneath the cap and pull the handle off.
3. Use your wrench to unscrew the packing nut, then pull out the stem.
4. At the bottom of the stem, you will see a rubber washer held in place by a brass screw. Remove the screw and the old washer.
5. Take the old washer to the hardware store to find an exact match. Washers come in different sizes and a wrong fit will not seal properly.
6. Install the new washer, apply a thin coat of plumber's grease, and reassemble everything in reverse order.

While you have the stem out, inspect the valve seat inside the faucet body. If it feels rough or pitted, the seat itself is damaged and needs to be resurfaced with a seat grinding tool or replaced entirely. A damaged seat will chew through new washers quickly.

Fixing a Ball Faucet

Ball faucets have more moving parts, so the best approach is to buy a complete ball faucet repair kit (about $15 to $20) rather than trying to identify individual worn parts.

1. Remove the handle set screw (usually an Allen screw on the side of the handle).
2. Pull off the handle and use adjustable pliers to remove the cap and collar.
3. Use the special tool included in the repair kit to remove the faucet cam.
4. Remove the cam, cam washer, and rotating ball.
5. Reach inside with needle-nose pliers and pull out the rubber seats and springs from the inlet holes.
6. Install the new seats, springs, ball, cam washer, and cam from the repair kit.
7. Reassemble the faucet and tighten the adjusting ring until the leak stops.

Fixing a Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge faucets are straightforward because you simply replace the entire cartridge.

1. Remove the decorative cap, handle screw, and handle.
2. If there is a retaining clip (a small metal U-shaped clip), pull it out with pliers.
3. Grip the cartridge with pliers and pull it straight out. It may require some force. If it is stuck, a cartridge puller tool (about $15) makes this much easier.
4. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to match it. Cartridges vary by manufacturer and model.
5. Apply plumber's grease to the O-rings on the new cartridge and push it into place.
6. Replace the retaining clip and reassemble.

Tip: Note the orientation of the old cartridge before removing it. If you install the new one backwards, the hot and cold will be reversed.

Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Ceramic disc faucets rarely leak, but when they do, it is usually the seals at the bottom of the disc cylinder.

1. Remove the handle (usually an Allen screw under a decorative cap).
2. Remove the escutcheon cap (the dome-shaped cover) to expose the disc cylinder.
3. Unscrew the disc cylinder mounting screws and lift it out.
4. On the underside, you will see neoprene seals in the inlet ports. Pry them out and clean the ports with white vinegar to remove mineral buildup.
5. Install new seals (or clean the old ones if they are not cracked).
6. Reassemble the faucet.

Important: When turning the water back on, do it very slowly. A sudden surge of water can crack the ceramic disc. Open the faucet first, then turn the supply valves on gradually.

Leaks from the Base or Under the Sink

If the leak is not from the spout but from around the base of the faucet or under the sink, the cause is different:

• Leak at the base when faucet is on — The O-ring around the faucet body is worn. Remove the spout, replace the O-ring, and apply plumber's grease.
• Leak under the sink — Check the supply line connections. Tighten them with a wrench. If they still leak, replace the supply lines (braided stainless steel lines are the most reliable).
• Leak from the sprayer hose — The connection at the diverter valve or the sprayer head is worn. Replace the sprayer hose or the diverter.

When to Call a Professional in Los Angeles

While most faucet leaks are DIY-friendly, call a professional if:

• The faucet is corroded or the parts are fused together — Forcing corroded parts can break the faucet or damage the plumbing behind the wall.
• You cannot identify the faucet type or find replacement parts — Some older or luxury faucets use proprietary parts that are hard to source.
• The leak is behind the wall — If you see water stains on the wall behind the faucet, the leak may be in the supply lines inside the wall, which requires cutting into drywall.
• You want the faucet replaced entirely — Installing a new faucet involves connecting supply lines, setting the faucet, and ensuring a watertight seal.

GoldKey Repairs handles faucet repairs and replacements across Los Angeles. Our pricing is simple: $150 for the first hour and $85 for each additional hour, plus parts. Most faucet repairs take under an hour. Call (323) 630-9115 to schedule.